"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips." -Myron and Adele (Laramie, WY)

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. Part 2 - More Advanced Skills & Technical Leading develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting.

The final portion of the program offers participants the opportunity to take part in an expedition to one of two places, Little Switzerland in Alaska, or to the Bravo Glacier on Canada's Mount Waddington.

Students who complete all four parts of the AMTL series will receive a certificate of Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Expedition Leadership. Students may also elect to take a second version of Part 3 as a substitution for these Part 4 options to receive this certificate.

Alpine Mountaineering Skills:

• Development of mixed climbing skills -0 participants will transition from snow climbing to rock climbing on most routes.
• continued development of movement skills on moderate ice and technical rock
• development of simul-climbing skills on lower angled ice with running belays
• study and practice of transitions between glacier travel mode and technical climbing mode
• continued study of the proper choice between and application of the primary ice axe positions: piolet canne, panne, manche, poignard, ramasse, rampe, ancre, and traction
• specialized designs and uses of alpine and technical tools in high angle climbing
• free climbing technique on alpine rock
• advanced concepts in the proper selection and placement of snow, ice and rock gear for belays and intermediate protection
• integration of specific skills with the general goals of efficient, safe, and self-dependent climbing

• continued training on the use of maps, compasses, GPS, and guidebooks
• strategizing for multi-day backcountry tours in a remote setting
• practical application of expeditionary staged camp techniques

• review of glacial and ice structures
• continued development of mountain sense and the ability to follow a "line of weakness"
• development of advanced technical protective systems in an alpine setting
• advanced study of movement over complex alpine terrain

• evaluation & prediction of mountain weather patterns
• introduction to the assessment of natural hazards
• individual & team crevasse rescue techniques

• continued study and practice of individual technical leadership skills
• development of technical leadership strategies on complex terrain
• technical & personal functions of individuals on an ascent: roles & responsibility
• problem solving: gathering appropriate data & assessment techniques
• evolving leadership roles: individual leadership vs. collective decision making
• large and small team expeditionary leadership strategy

Italy's Boot towers over the Pika Glacier. Kurt Hicks

Little Switzerland is the name given to a series of dramatic granite spires jutting up out of the Pika Glacier like broken teeth. Found just 35 miles south of Denali, this sub-range provides ample opportunities for climbers to ascend dramatic towers in single pushes from a basecamp on the glacier. Little Swiss is an alpine playground in a grand setting. Routes require varied skills as climbers must apply glacier travel, ice climbing and moderate rock climbing skills to successfully ascend these spires.

Ascents off the Pika glacier give one a glimpse into what it is like to be on a longer more remote expedition in a backwater of Denali National Park. Not only will you learn expeditionary tactics and techniques, but you will have the opportunity to design and plan multiple ascents throughout the duration of the course. If your long-term goals are more in line with an expeditionary style that attempts multiple peaks over a short period of time, then the dramatic and complex terrain of Little Switzerland will be the perfect place to explore expeditionary climbing.

Ascent options in Little Switzerland include, but are not limited to:

• The Munchkin - II, 5.2
• Dragonspine, First Buttress - III, 5.7
• North Troll, South Ridge - III, 5.7
• Hobbit King - Hobbit Arete - III, 5.7
• Hobbit Footstool, East Ridge - II, 5.8
• Middle Troll, South Face - III, 5.8, 45-degree snow
• The Throne, The Lost Marsupial - III, 5.8
• The Royal Tower, East Ridge - IV, 5.8
• South Troll, South Face - IV, 5.9
• The Royal Tower, Gargoyle Buttress - IV, 5.10a

Mt. Waddington is among the most remote, beautiful, and seldom seen climbs in North America. Dylan Taylor

In this fourth 12-day segment of the program you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making an expedition style ascent of Mount Waddington. This is one of the rare courses in the world that finishes on such a remote, technical and beautiful mountains.

Mount Waddington is a very serious objective. This expedition will draw deeply on all of your skills. Climbers must be able to move effectively on glaciers, rock climb, ice climb and ascend mixed terrain to be successful on this mountain. A successful ascent of Mount Waddington is the equivalent of a PhD in Alpinism. It is a remote and highly sought after objective.

During this expedition, your instructors will continue to help you to refine expeditionary skills and techniques. With guidance, you will plan every part of this expedition and will be a co-leader in the decisions that will be made. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes. It is also our goal that upon completion, you have the skills and the understanding to put together an expedition to one of the greater ranges of the world.

Dates: July 15 - 26, 2012