We gain a great view of Everest from the summit of Lobuche East.
Program Overview
This program provides the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000-foot (6000+ meter) peaks in a relatively short time and in one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and superb climbing on Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m), and Pokalde (5,806m).
The Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition is comprised of moderately technical climbing, do-able for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. We'll help you develop and advance your alpine climbing skills as we make this fantastic journey through five different valleys in a rewarding month of high Himalayan climbing.
This program is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at a reasonable price. Ultimately, our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations, and experiences available. With the leadership and company of our most affable and experienced Western guides, working collaboratively with our excellent Sherpa colleagues, we promise you an experience of a lifetime! This expedition is a joint AAI/Adventure Consultants undertaking that draws on the knowledge and experience of both guide services.
On the approach trek just before Dingbouche, with Chukung and Island Peak in the distance. Suze Kelly.
Ascent of the Three Peaks of Nepal
Island Peak, referred to by the Sherpa people as Imja Tse (an "island in a glacial sea"), is an exciting and popular peak that is an ideal starting point for the Three Peak expedition. The view from the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse's south faces is awe-inspiring.
Stepping from Island Peak to Pokalde and then Lobuche East is an ideal progression. Pokalde is traightforwad and consolidates your skills whilst Lobuche East is a little more technical with more fixed rope and slightly more exposure. The high camp is dramatic with exceptional views across towards Ama Dablam, especially at sunset when the peaks turn pink as the sun sets into Tibet. We climb a subsidiary peak of Lobuche East.
Itinerary
This twenty seven day expedition commences when you arrive into Kathmandu in Nepal on the 10th of November. We will spend the next day sorting equipment and holding a team briefing about the journey ahead and make our final preparations. On day three we fly to Lukla at the doorstep of the Khumbu valley. The expedition will stay at Sherpa lodges whilst we are trekking in the valleys on the way to each of the climbing objectives. On each of the peaks and we will establish base camp and high camp where our kitchen crew will cater for us.
On our trek up the famous Khumbu valley we will visit monasteries and small villages on the same route that Everest climbers have taken for over 50 years.
Near the head of the Imjatse Valley, Island Peak enjoys spectacular views of the North Side of Ama Dablam and the sweeping flanks of Nuptse along with the world’s fourth highest peak, Lhotse. In preparation for Island Peak we first climb the Chukung Ri, a fair hike to altitude in itself at 5,550m, in a day trip from the township of Chukung. We then cross the glacier via a trail to Island Peak Base Camp. The climb of Island Peak involves some scrambling up rocky terrain to reach low angled glaciers that we walk up until the angle increases. From here we ascend via 40 degree slopes on fixed ropes. After a time we reach the exposed summit ridge and we enjoy the security of the ropes all the way to the summit. We will start the climb from base camp in the early hours of the morning. Preceding the summit attempt will be fixed rope coaching and acclimatising hikes on nearby peaks.
Approaching Island Peak on its lower glacier. Suze Kelly.
From Island Peak base camp we will cross back into the Khumbu and then up to our camp at Dzonglha. We spend a day actively resting, learning and practicing mountaineering skills. We then move up to a high camp on Lobuche East, where we set up camp on a small expanse of snow or rock, above a deep, blue lake. It's then early to bed for another alpine start.
To climb Island Peak one needs to be fit and energetic, however extensive previous climbing experience, whilst recommended, is not compulsory. Your trip leaders of both experienced Western and Sherpa guides will provide some training that will allow you to gain or consolidate skills ensuring a safe passage on the journey with a highest degree of safety.
In preparation for Island Peak we first climb the Chukung Ri, a fair hike to altitude in itself at 5,550m, in a day trip from the township of Chukung. We then cross the glacier via a trail to Island Peak Base Camp. The climb of Island Peak involves some scrambling up rocky terrain to reach low angled glaciers that we walk up until the angle increases. From here we ascend via 40 degree slopes on fixed ropes. After a time we reach the exposed summit ridge and we enjoy the security of the ropes all the way to the summit. We will start the climb from base camp in the early hours of the morning. Preceding the summit attempt will be fixed rope coaching and acclimatising hikes on nearby peaks.
From Island Peak base camp we will drop back below Chukung and then up to our camp below Pokalde and the Kongma La. Watch the sun dip below the horizon and feel the allure of a down jacket and warm sleeping bag! In the morning you will pack up and head off to climb Pokalde just on sunrise. The camp will be packed up at this point, and while you climb to Pokalde’s summit, the equipment will be moved to the next campsite that we trek to after the climb.
We then cross the glacier via a trail to Island Peak Base Camp. The climb of Island Peak involves some scrambling up rocky terrain to reach low angled glaciers that we walk up until the angle increases. From here we ascend via 40 degree slopes on fixed ropes. After a time we reach the exposed summit ridge and we enjoy the security of the ropes all the way to the summit. We will start the climb from base camp in the early hours of the morning. Preceding the summit attempt will be fixed rope coaching and acclimatising hikes on nearby peaks.
After thorough acclimatization, climbers enjoy the steeper ground on Lobuche East. Mar.
Depending of weather conditions, we elect to either have a rest day, or move up to a high camp on Lobuche East that lies on a small expanse of grass and rock above a deep blue lake. Then it's early to bed for another alpine start the following morning.
Our early start (around 2.30am) sees us climbing the south-east ridge which is a mixture of snow and ice. Where necessary, we fix ropes along the route. Steady climbing will bring us to the far eastern summit.
From the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung Kang, and Cho Oyu. Then it's time for our descent, all the way back to our Base Camp.
After the ascent of Lobuche East we program a rest day, then climb up and over the Cho La (pass) and descend to the village of Tagnag. The following day we have a two hour hike to Gokyo with its lovely lake views and surrounding peaks, then we descend down the Gokyo Valley to Lhabarma to stay with some of our Sherpa friends. Then it's a short day back to Khumjung, above Namche Bazar to rest, do laundry and enjoy the delights of the bakery!
From Khumjung it's a descent over familiar territory once we pass Namche Bazaar on the way down the valley towards Phakding. The thicker, oxygen enriched air, makes for easy travel with time to stop to enjoy the views or chat to the locals and there's time to enjoy Namche and perhaps even shop around for some of the thousands of items on display such as the Tibetan rugs and Tibetan jewellery and gem stones. We languish that night in the comfort of the lodge in Phakding and the next day it's onwards to Lukla for the flight back to Kathmandu.
This expedition is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at the most reasonable price. Our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations and experiences that are available. It's the small details that make all the difference, and this is where we excel. We provide the most affable and experienced western guides working in conjunction with our excellent Sherpa friends, to promise you an experience of a lifetime!
From Island Peak base camp we will drop back below Chukung and then up to our camp below Pokalde and the Kongma La. Watch the sun dip below the horizon and feel the allure of a down jacket and warm sleeping bag! In the morning you will pack up and head off to climb Pokalde just on sunrise. The camp will be packed up at this point, and while you climb to Pokalde's summit, the equipment will be moved to the next campsite that we trek to after the climb.
Land Cost Inclusions and Exclusions
Inclusions:
- Nepalese Government peak royalty fees
- All trek organizational requirements
- All trekking permits
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Air transport and accommodation in lodges or tents except Kathmandu
- All group equipment (tents, ropes, kitchen, radios, etc.) and emergency medical supplies
- All trek staff, including Western guide, Sherpa guides, cooks, and porter support
- Transport of 33lb (15kg) personal equipment
- All meals after departing Kathmandu and before arriving back in Kathmandu
- Access to our satellite telephone for outgoing calls
Exclusions:
- Air travel to and from Nepal
- Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu
- Purchases of bottled water while on the trek, gifts, alcohol, (we supply boiled water for drinking)
- Other charges at lodges/tea houses such as showers, internet access or batter re-charging
- Entry visas for Nepal (we suggest getting a 30 or 90-day tourist visa for Nepal on arrival in Kathmandu)
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Personal travel insurance, cancellation insurance, and rescue insurance
- Excess baggage charges for the flights to and from Lukla
- Cost of satellite telephone calls
- Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
On the spectacular summit ridge of Island Peak.
Flight Information
Flight arrangements should be made so that you arrive in Kathmandu on the first scheduled start day of the trip (Day 1), and you depart the last scheduled day of the trip (Day 33). Please email or call our Travel Coordinator, Lisa Greif, if you would like assistance with travel arrangements (509-972-4028).
Other Programs in Nepal
Beginner and intermediate climbers looking for a program with more trekking than climbing may want to consider our Khumbu Trek. For advanced climbers who are searching for physical and technical difficulty, we also offer expeditions on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, and the ever alluring Mount Everest.
Please click on the program links for more information on each of these unique and challenging ascents.
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